Category Archives: Favorite Tools

Epiphany Fèves

Today is Epiphany. Since I’m often running late for things I find it comforting to think about the three kings being tardy for baby Jesus’ birthday. If I’d been around back then (and more significantly if I’d been invited) I probably would have been late too.

"feve boxes"

Old Burdick's Chocolate boxes I keep my fève collection in.

More importantly in my mind than gold, frankincense, and myrrh the kings brought as gifts is the Galette des Rois or Kings Cake which is made to celebrate their arrival.

"angel gabriel fève"

An angel Gabriel fève

"village feves"

Village people fèves

I have heard the dessert called either Gâteau des Rois or Galette des Rois though my French isn’t good enough to describe the differences between the two, and while there are many recipes for a Kings Cake, the two variations I’ve had are puff pastry confection filled with creamy almond filling and topped with a gold crown or a Louisiana style version which is cinnamon dough shaped like a wreath and frosted with sugary icing and lots of purple, green, and yellow sugar. Inside of either version there is a fève or bean.

"holy family fèves"

Holy family fèves

"plastic fèves"

Plastic baby fèves

I’m sure that originally the bean was a bean, but today it is often a small porcelain figure that is baked into the cake, though sometimes it can be a little plastic baby which is inserted after baking. The person who is lucky enough to get the slice of cake with the fève is then crowned King or Queen for the a day or in some instances for the year. Finding the fève not only bestows upon you the title, but in some places also means you need to buy the Kings Cake the following year.

"olive oil fèves"

Olive oil fèves

"lucky feves"

Lucky fèves from Laduree

Fèves come in all shapes, styles, and finishes which you can see if you do a google image search for fèves. It’s probably lucky I don’t live in France or New Orleans because if I did my fèves collection would fill much more than a few chocolate boxes.

"modern feves"

Modern fèves

"vintage fève"

Vintage fèves

My favorite Gallette des Rois recipe comes from my college friend Alexis who has been living in France since graduation. I can’t share it with you though because A. I haven’t asked her permission (this is no ordinary recipe–she won first prize in a cooking competition with this recipe) and B. because I put it someplace very, very safe; so safe that I can’t quite remember where that safe place is right now. When I find the recipe I will be baking our Kings Cake and hiding a fève in it, it’ll just be a little bit late.

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Round and Round

"nutmeg grinder

I know very little about this piece, other than the fact it has a paten mark from Sept. 3,  1867. If I were a cook 140+ years ago I would have been charmed to own this nutmeg grater. Truth be told I’ve been charmed to have owned this great tool for the last twenty years.

Nutmeg trees actually produce two spices – nutmeg and mace. Mace isn’t a spice I use very often but there is a great sounding vegetable soup recipe at Béatrice Peltre’s blog which calls for it. While mace isn’t a frequently used spice, nutmeg is one that I often reach for. I used to buy pre-ground nutmeg in a jar, which has a deliciously powerful scent that wafts up to you the moment the jar is opened. The problem is once the jar has been opened the scent and some of the flavor fade. Which is why I’m a proponent of grating your own nutmeg. It’s fun to take a look at the variety of nutmeg grinders pictured on the internet.

"Nutmeg and Mace"

Illustration of nutmeg and mace from Alan Davidson's The Oxford Companion to Food

Grating nutmeg is incredibly satisfying. Whether it’s the zing I add to a bowl of creamy steamy mashed potatoes (a great tip from Alan Pirie), a whisper of nutmeg on top of  a cold glass of eggnog and rum, or that titillating taste that will have people wondering what did you put into that peach blueberry cobbler–this is the tool you need.

If you’re lucky enough to own a grater like this you’ll also need another handy kitchen tool – a toothpick. The punched holes need to be cleaned out every so often as bits of the grated nutmeg tend to plug them up.

"back of nutmeg grater"

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Whip It Good

Many  years ago we invited a Smith College Thanksgiving orphan to share our turkey day with us. The college does not serve Thanksgiving dinner to the small number of students who stay on campus over the holiday weekend, instead offering them vouchers to local restaurants. Hearing that students weren’t getting a homemade dinner, local alumnae began inviting the Thanksgiving orphans to their homes for a family meal. Continue reading

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Favorite Tools #1

I have more kitchen stuff than any normal person has a need for. I tell myself that the vast horde of pots, pans, obscure devices, and hundreds of cookie cutters are necessary because of my food styling work, but the truth is I have a bit of a collecting problem. So when I read Jane Lear’s post on her favorite pot it got me to thinking about Continue reading

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