Category Archives: 50 Recipes

Christmas Cookie Recipes

I felt a huge sigh of relief a few years ago when a friend at church pointed out that Christmas lasts for twelve days. Count them – twelve. With stores hanging lights in October, advertisers bombarding everyone with “holiday specials” pre-Halloween, black Friday shopping starting before I had fully digested my turkey dinner and three pieces of pie I feel that by the time Christmas actually rolls around it’s already over. But it isn’t, it is just beginning. I can breathe. If everything is not done by midnight on December 24th the world does not shudder and come to a stand still (or worse still blow up). With that extra 11 day buffer it doesn’t matter if I only have four batches of cookies done or all seven – Christmas will happen either way. There is much comfort in knowing this. I offer it to you, this gift of knowledge, Christmas lasts for twelve days. Do not feel the burden of trying to cram everything into one day because you have time.

"christmas tree with duct tape wrapped presents"

Pre-December 25th I managed to bake a bunch of cookies from my classic Christmas cookie list. Most of them I made using the cookie log trick. Here are two of the recipes I haven’t previously shared.

Shawn’s Pecan Butterscotch Cookies

"shawn's pecan butterscotch cookies"

My copy of Jasper White’s Cooking from New England falls open to the recipe for Mark’s Butterscotch Icebox Cookies. After years of making and tweaking them I’ve renamed my version after my husband who loves them. I’ve amplified the recipe by quadrupling the amount of pecans and doubling the vanilla. Interestingly this recipe calls for them to be made into cookie logs and refrigerated before slicing and baking.

Shawn’s Pecan Butterscotch Cookies

1 cup pecans

3/4 cup unsalted butter, softened (1  1/2 sticks)

1 cup packed brown sugar

1 egg

2 teaspoons vanilla

2 cups sifted flour (sift then measure)

1 teaspoon baking soda

1/2 teaspoon salt

Either in the oven or on the stove top in a cast iron pan toast the almonds until lightly brown and fragrant. Cool, then chop into small pieces. Cream the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Add the egg and vanilla creaming to incorporate. Sift in the flour, soda and salt and throw in the nuts. Stir until well combined. Make the dough into cookie logs, for directions on how to do that click here. Pop logs into fridge for a few hours or a few days.

When ready to bake preheat the oven to 350º F. Slice cookie logs roughly 1/4″ and place on parchment lined cookie sheets. Bake 9-11 minutes turning the sheet 180º  half way through baking. Cool and store in air-tight tins.

Gertrude’s

"Gertrude's cookies"

This recipe comes from my Grammy Caldwell’s friend Gertrude and has been a classic Christmas cookie in our family for more than half a century. Lovely butter-y shortbread dough rolled into balls which a small spoonful of jam cooked into the spot where you press your thumb. I have yet to meet someone who can eat just one of these.

Gertrude’s

3/4 pound unsalted butter, softened (three sticks)

1 cup sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla

pinch salt

3  1/2 – 3  3/4 cups flour

Seedless raspberry jam

Preheat the oven to 325º F. Cream the butter and sugar together in a mixing bowl until well blended. Stir in the vanilla and salt then add half the flour. You will most likely need to stir in the other half of the flour by hand, rather than with the mixer. If you need to work on your biceps cream the whole thing by hand.

When I went to write up this recipe I realized I have four different versions – all calling for various amounts of flour. Looking at the four different recipe cards spread across my counter was a moment where I wished I could wave a magic wand and be back in Grammy Caldwell’s kitchen. I could stand at her side one more time and take notes while she was cooking, and I would weigh the flour before she added it to the butter and sugar so I would know precisely how much she used. After all a cup of flour can vary hugely depending on if it has been sifted or not. Of course if I could wind back the clock I would also be able to giver her one more hug and tell her how much I love her and learned from her. I think she knew, but it would be pretty great to be able to tell her one more time.

Shortbread is simple, just a few ingredients, so each one needs to be in proper relationship with the others. Use the best butter you can afford. If you like your cookies a bit “shorter” use the lesser amount of flour. If you like them more cookie-like use the larger amount. Both variations are yummy.

Once you’ve mixed the dough roll it into small balls the size of shooter marbles. Place them on baking sheets lined with parchment paper and poke a depression in each cookie with a finger. Fill the the finger holes with a tiny spoonful (we’re talking the tip of a baby spoon) of seedless raspberry jam. The important part is no seeds. Bake for 16-20 minutes or until the bottoms are lightly browned, and the jam is nice and bubbly. I give the baking sheet a 180º turn half way through. You do not want to brown the upper part of the cookie.

Full disclosure: I have over-browned these cookies on more than one occasion, including twice in the past week as I was trying to write this post. Family and friends have selflessly come to my rescue and eaten all the overcooked ones. Not a crumb of evidence is left.

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Twelve Days of Christmas Cookies

I love making Christmas cookies. To me they signal Christmas is coming as much as lighting each week’s Advent candle, a yard full of snow, listening to Christmas CDs on repeat, or enjoying a glass of eggnog with rum and freshly ground nutmeg.

"Picking out a Christmas Tree"

Many years ago my friend Marisa Gorgoni and I  tried to cash in on this mutual love we both shared for baking Christmas cookies. Our money making scheme was to sell homemade cookies to people who were too busy to bake. Good idea right? Our basic math skills were sharp enough, though we clearly didn’t understand how to estimate in our time (or for that matter the cost of electricity) when we came up with our prices. Here, in Marisa’s very neat handwriting, were the costs of our cookie ingredients:

"Prices of cookie ingredients"

We sold them to a captive audience – our teachers at F-M High School (I’m guessing our parents probably bought some as well, but that is another story). Here is what we charged:

"Cookie prices"

All I can say is our underpaid teachers got a great deal that year, and they all probably knew it.* Especially our math teacher. When all the dishes were done and the cookies distributed I think we each had made about 5 cents/hour. Lesson learned, ever since I have only “sold” cookies when I was getting well paid for my time (either as a pastry chef or as a food stylist). It doesn’t mean that I haven’t made cookies out of love, as a thank-you, or for a get well present. I do it all the time. I just don’t try to make a career out of it.

With roughly twelve days to go ’til Christmas I am embarking on my annual cookie baking marathon. B.K. (before kids) I would go nuts. Nowadays I’ve settled into a somewhat predictable and slightly shorter cookie roster which consists of Grammy Caldwell’s snickerdoodles, Arlene Sullivan’s Molasses Snaps, Grammy Thompson’s Scandinavian CookiesSugar Cookies, Butterscotch Icebox Cookies, Gertrude’s, and Snowballs. There are plenty of other cookies that I love, I just stay with these since I associate each one with Christmas, especially those of my childhood.

To get the recipes of the first four cookies mentioned above click on the name of the cookie and it will link you to the original blog where I wrote about it. The others I will post as I bake my way through them.

Happy baking to all my readers! I’d love to know what you’re planning on making this holiday season –

"staring to fill up the cookie tin"

*I may not be being fair to my high school teachers when I say they got a real bargin, since you could buy a whole box of girl scout cookies for a little over a dollar in 1978. With that in mind a dollar for a mere dozen cookies may have seemed expensive to them. Of course today I’ve seen a single cookie (and grant you it’s a large cookie) sell for anywhere from $1-2.50 depending on where you’re buying it. Sheesh, I sound like an old curmudgeon so I’ll stop now.

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A Peck of Applesauce

I am packing for our week in the midwest and I’m a little stressed. We’re planning to spend Thanksgiving with my in-laws, and before you ask the answer is NO, they are not what is stressing me out. I can’t wait to see them as it has been too long between visits. What I’m worried about is if I’ve packed all the kitchen essentials. How to pack what I truly need vs. what can be improvised.

"Michigan house"

Our plan is to meet in Michigan at the house my husband’s grandfather built and have a big, huge, classic family holiday meal. Something along the lines of Cynthia Rylant’s fabulous children’s book When the Relatives Came. Only we’ll add turkey and cranberry sauce to the story.

"Grandpa Tyskling and Judy"

Grandpa Tyskling and Judy

There will be one Grandmother (my mother-in-law Judy), three siblings (my husband plus his brother and sister), their spouses (my brother-in-law, sister-in-law, and me) plus all nine cousins. It’s not the number of people which has me concerned, since I agree with Rylant and think the more the merrier. Rather will the house have pots and pans big enough for the mountains of mashed potatoes, rivers of gravy, and vats of green beans? Or will we need to cook the food in shifts? To stave off my anxieties I’ve started cooking a few things to pack and bring along. Cooking is my therapy. I’ve also packed a few bottles of wine, which in a pinch, can be used as rolling pins after they’ve done their duty during cocktail hour. My stress level is dropping as I write this.

"Clarkdale Fruit Farm"

What I started with making was applesauce. This almost doesn’t qualify as a recipe, but perhaps there are a few people out there who don’t know how to make homemade applesauce. It couldn’t be easier or more stress-free if you live in apple country. The trick, as I have mentioned before when you are cooking with fruit, is to mix up your varieties – in this case apples. Then your only other decision is chunky or smooth.

"many apples"

50 Apple Applesauce

Buy as many different apple varieties as you can get your hands on. Trust me, there is no such thing as too much applesauce. If you want smooth you will need a foley food mill. If you prefer chunky all you’ll need is a huge pot and a reliable paring knife. The real difference between the two is prep time vs. clean up time. Chunky is all in the prep. Smooth will mean more time at the sink.

"cast iron enameled pots"

Vintage cast iron enameled pots

Smooth Applesauce

Wash as many apples as will fit in your pot (my giant cast iron enameled pot can hold a lot). Cut them into eighths add a splash of water and cover (that’s right, apples, seeds, skin and all). Cook over low heat (with your pot sitting on a flame tamer), stirring every once in a while to prevent the apples from burning. Cover the pot to help things along.

When the apples are soft and cooked down ladle everything into your foley food mill. The food mill will grind out the skin, seeds and stems while at the same time giving you a lovely pink toned applesauce (if your apples were red skinned). This applesauce is a thousand times better than jarred because it has a depth of flavor you can’t get with just one type of apple.

For those of you who may never have used a foley food mill be aware that they can often make noises of the rude, immature kind. Hearing applesauce burp, fart and squelch seems to cause giggles in children of all ages from toddlers to teens to middle age men. You have been warned.

Chunky Applesauce

Pretty much the same as for smooth only this time you peel and core the apples before cooking them. I can fit around 50 apples in my giant blue pot. Don’t forget the splash of water before you turn on the stove top. I always use a flame tamer to keep the heat well-distributed under the pot. This is what it will look like when things really get cooking:

"applesauce cooking"A few stirs and when the applesauce is fully cooked it will “deflate”. Stop cooking when there look to be a few too many chunky apple pieces. The applesauce will continue cooking with it’s own heat and you should end up with a perfect chunky sauce.

"chunky applesauce"

Once the applesauce is cooked you can either ladle it into jars and process in a water bath* or you can cool it down and freeze it in portions. Or you can spoon it hot into dishes and sprinkle with a little cinnamon sugar. It just depends on how much you want to eat now and how much you want for later.

"applesauce with cinnamon sugar"

"jarred applesauce"Next I’ll make cook up turkey stock so I can make the gravy while the turkey is cooking. Gravy prep is one of Tom Hirschfeld’s tips along with how to keep a turkey warm. I’ve never met the guy, but he appears to give some very sound advice in the kitchen. It’s going to be a very relaxed Thanksgiving.

Update *Do not think you can be lazy and just pour boiling hot applesauce into a sterilized jar and call it a day. I did that and then because I “heard” the jars seal them selves (they make a little tink sound) thought I was fine and dandy. Silly me. A week later at Thanksgiving we opened a jar and there was mold on top. You must either refridgerate the applesauce (for up to 10 days), freeze, or process in a boiling water bath for 10 minutes if you want to store it properly. Or you could just eat it all up then and there, in which case I would recommend making a smaller batch.

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Cut Me Up Some Sugar (Cookies)

It is a grey day and I am filled with both gratitude and sadness. Gratitude that my town was not on Hurricane Sandy’s hit list. Sadness for those people and places who were in her path.

This past weekend was a bit surreal as we battened down the hatches in anticipation for what we believed was coming. I thought back to Hurricane Irene last August and the devastation left in her path. My mind was also on the freak October snow storm which dumped two feet of snow over western Massachusetts. That storm resulted in local town officials cancelling trick or treating on Halloween due to downed power lines. We were without power for a week.

"October 2011 snowstorm"

Old habits die hard and this past Sunday after hearing all the dire storm warnings I was busy bottling water and gathering candles. Shawn prepared by putting away the porch furniture and getting extra gas for the generator we bought as a result of last October’s snow storm. In eighteen years of marriage the generator may be the best early Christmas present ever.

"halloween sugar cookies"

Vintage polaroids (1980s) of Halloween sugar cookies

The threat of the storm also had me thinking back on how I was trying to bake for the Academy at Charlemont’s Cornucopia Auction with no power. Several friends who did have power offered their kitchens for me to use. The amount of baking I’d committed to however was a storm of the sugary kind and I didn’t want to inflict it on the unsuspecting. Our new generator allowed me to begin baking 48 hours before the auction started and all was well, though I did have to cut a few recipes which took more time. For this year’s auction I have the luxury of seven days to prepare so I’ve added iced sugar cookies to my list of baked goods I’m planning to donate.

"Leaf shaped sugar cookies"

I love making iced sugar cookies because they fit any holiday or occasion. Once the cookies have cooled the real fun begins. Icing sugar cookies is like entering the zone for me. I surround myself with bowls of frosting, a few toothpicks, some non parelis, and I’m off. You don’t need to be a food stylist, Martha or a pro baker to make fabulous sugar cookies. All you need are three things –  awesome cookie cutters, food paste to tint your royal icing, and a great sugar cookie recipe. My go-to sugar cookie recipe is from Nancy Baggett.*

nancy baggett's sugar cookie recipe

Over the years I’ve loved seeing what cookie ideas Martha’s minions come up with. I never miss an opportunity to stroll through Dean and Deluca when I’m in New York to see what their bakery buyers have sourced. And of course there is more sugar cookie inspiration to be found on dozens of blogs as well as on-line stores. My suggestion is to look around for ideas then go into your kitchen and cream your own butter and sugar together. Pull out a few cookie cutters, mix up some royal icing, and have a blast. I’m sure the results will be fantastic!

Basic Sugar Cookie Dough

1 cup unsalted butter, softened

1 cup sugar

1 egg

2-3  teaspoons vanilla

1/8 teaspoon lemon extract (optional)

1 Tablespoon milk

3 cups flour

3/4 teaspoon baking powder

pinch salt

Cream the butter and sugar together until fluffy. Add the egg, vanilla, milk, and lemon extract (if using) and blend together. The butter and sugar mix may break down at this point and become curdled looking – don’t worry the flour will bring it all back together. Add the dry ingredients and mix until they are completely incorporated. Divide the dough in half, smoosh each half flat, then wrap tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate for a few hours or overnight.

Preheat oven to 350º F for smaller cookies and 375º F for larger. You can work with either temperature, but I find little cookies burn quickly so I use a lower oven temp.

Now here’s the real trick to making great sugar cookies – do not add more flour to roll out the dough. Instead unwrap the dough but keep it on the plastic wrap. Add a second sheet of plastic wrap on top. This way the dough will not stick to your counter or rolling pin. You will need to peel back the plastic wrap every so often and reposition the dough. I also flip the dough over once or twice to make sure each side is smooth. I try to get my dough roughly 1/4″ thick, though it does often vary.

Cut out your cookies, place on a parchment or silpat covered cookie sheet and bake 7-10 minutes depending on size and oven temperature. I will often bake two sheets of cookies at a time so I rotate them top to bottom and back to front to ensure even baking. The bottoms should be lightly browned and perhaps the edges too, depending on how thin you rolled your dough. Carefully remove and place on a cooling rack.

Once the cookies have cooled you can either store them in an air-tight container or move on to frosting. I use a classic royal icing, which I’ve modified slightly to accommodate concerns about raw eggs.

Royal Icing

1/2 – 1 pound confectioner’s sugar, sifted

1-3 teaspoons fresh lemon juice

pasteurized egg whites

paste food coloring

I cannot tell you how important it is to sift the powdered sugar. Yes, it may seem unnecessary. Yes, it will probably make a powdery mess. Do it anyway! If you decided despite this advice not to don’t complain to me when your royal icing is lumpy.

I haven’t given an amount for the egg whites because it can vary depending on the season or humidity as well as if you want runnier or stiffer icing. I generally start with a few Tablespoons worth along with the lemon juice and then just add dribbles more until I have my desired consistency. Then I divide the icing into bowls and add the paste food coloring (be aware a little goes a long way). If there is a color I don’t think I’ll use right away I lay a piece of plastic wrap directly on the surface to keep it from crusting over. Note – if you are really concerned about the raw egg thing (even pasteurized) you can use powdered version, just refer to the manufacturer’s recommendations for reconstituting.

Here are some frosted sugar cookies and cutters from my files:

"heart shaped cookie cutters"

"iced heart shaped sugar cookies"

Isabelle’s valentine sugar cookies.

"sugar decorated sugar cookies"

Or sprinkle on colored sugars before baking.

 

"shamrock cookie cutters"

New and vintage shamrock cookie cutters.

"basketball sugar cookies"

Basketball sugar cookies

"sugar cookie ball gown"

Sugar cookie ball gown

*By the way Nancy has a new cookie cookbook out which you can read about here.

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A+ Snickerdoodles

Snickerdoodles were Grammy Caldwell’s signature cookie, the same way oatmeal bread was her signature bread. I remember making snickerdoodles with her in her kitchen on Strathmore Drive – rolling the dough between my hands into balls the size of small walnuts, coating them in cinnamon sugar, and then squashing them flat with the bottom of a tin measuring cup before popping them in the oven to cook. They were divine and we would devour them by the dozens.

"Grammy Caldwell"

Grammy Caldwell

It wasn’t until many years later that I learned why Gram’s snickerdoodles were so good. My sister and I were talking about Grammy and all the amazing things she used to make when Heather turned to me and asked, “You do know why her snickerdoodles were so incredible, don’t you?” Aside from all the butter, sugar, and cinnamon I couldn’t really say. Surprised at my ignorance she told me, “Grammy got an A+ for her snickerdoodles on her baking competency exam at Syracuse!” Grammy C. had been a 1925 home economics major at Syracuse University. A plus indeed.

"snickerdoodles waiting for ice cream"

When my sister got married this past weekend I couldn’t think of a better way to have Grammy with us in spirit than by having her snickerdoodles as part of desserts which I had offered to make as a wedding present. Heather and Paul had a fabulous wedding in Boston with their immediate family. Saturday saw everyone piling onto a Duck Boat tour followed by pizza and candlepin bowling.

"Heather & Paul driving the duck boat"

Heather & Paul driving the duck boat

Heather wanted a traditional cake. Paul was up for something a little different. I made a lemon chiffon cake with lemon curd and lemon Italian buttercream for Heather. For Paul’s “groom’s cake” I made two different kinds of ice cream sandwiches. An informal ice cream sandwich taste testing with my friends and neighbors had proclaimed the top winner to be Grammy’s Snickerdoodles sandwiched around strawberry ice cream. We included a chocolate brownie with chocolate  ice cream for the chocloholics (and a brownie with Ben & Jerry’s Phish Food for my nephew Bennett).

"snickerdoodles with strawberry ice cream"

Snickerdoodles with strawberry ice cream

Since my crew was running late (another Grammy Caldwell tradition*) I didn’t have time to make the ice cream sandwiches ahead. Instead I dropped off the cake and the cookies at Flatbread Pizza & Bowling and we dashed to the Duck Boat tour. We picked up ice cream on the way back  and I crossed my fingers that the eleven kids (nephews, nieces, sons and daughters) would want to help me put everything together. They did and we all had a blast eating pizza, smooshing together ice cream sandwiches and bowling. Grammy would have been thrilled. I know Heather and Paul were.

Grammy Caldwell’s Snickerdoodles

1/2 cup (114 g total)butter mixed with shortening, I use 2:1 butter:shortening ratio

3/4 cup (160 g) sugar

1 egg

1  1/3 cup (176 g) flour

1 teaspoon (5 g) cream of tartar

1/2 teaspoon (3 g) baking soda

1/8 teaspoon salt

1/3 cup (66 g) sugar mixed with 2-3 (3-5 g) teaspoons cinnamon

Preheat the oven to 400º F. Cream together the butter, shortening and sugar (make sure your butter is softened to room temperature first). Beat in the egg, then add the flour, cream of tartar, baking soda and salt over, mixing as you go. Grammy would always sift her flour first which completely changes the amount of flour you use. I’ve done it both ways and your cookie dough will be a little less sticky if you spoon and level your flour rather than sifting first. If you decide to sift first you may need to pop the dough in the fridge for 15-10 minutes to make it stiff enough to roll. Roll dough into balls the size of small walnuts, then roll them into the cinnamon sugar mix. Place on parchment covered cookie sheet and smoosh flat with the bottom of a glass, which you occasionally dip into the cinnamon sugar to prevent sticking. The cookies spread so make sure they are spaced well apart from one another. Bake 8-10 minutes, reversing the baking pan once during baking. Cool cookies and store in an air tight container.

For ice cream sandwiches double the snickerdoodle recipe and when you are ready to serve sandwich a scoop of slightly softened premium strawberry ice cream (Hägen-Dazs is good) between two snickerdoodles. Make sure there is a generous amount of ice cream so the cookie to ice cream ratio is good.

* Grammy Caldwell was often referred to while she was alive as “The late Mrs. Caldwell”. Seems running late is genetic.

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